March 19 marks the celebration of St. Joseph, a holiday that also coincides with Father’s Day. In Molise, however, this day takes on a deeper meaning thanks to a centuries-old tradition: that of the thirteen courses. Celebrations begin on March 18 and, in some towns such as Roccavivara, are also repeated on May 1, with meat-based dishes.
The origins of the festival date back to before the 17th century. In many towns in Molise, such as Santa Croce di Magliano, Venafro, Bonefro, Casacalenda, Guardialfiera and Larino, home or public altars are set up decorated with flowers, wheat, colorful fabrics and images of the saint. At the center of the celebrations are two tables: the first reserved for three people representing the Holy Family (an old man, an old woman and a child), the second open to all, without invitation, in a spirit of sharing and gratitude.
In Bonefro, the event becomes completely public to give everyone a way to participate and cultivate the spirit of community.
The atmosphere is enlivened by folk songs, prayers and traditional music, often accompanied by accordions. In the wards, bonfires are lit around which people keep vigil throughout the night, consuming simple foods and drinks.
The thirteen courses, while varying slightly from village to village, reflect peasant cuisine and the value of sobriety. Among the most representative dishes is pasta con la mollicawith breadcrumbs, prepared with thirteen poor ingredients, a symbol of the simplicity of the feast. It is traditionally eaten with the hands, evoking the customs of the past.
Other typical dishes include legumes (such as “pezzente”), salt cod, asparagus, mushrooms, rice, turnips, and fish. There is no shortage of characteristic desserts, such as caveciuni filled with ricotta cheese, and the ever-present zeppole di San Giuseppemade with fried or baked puff pastry, filled with cream and sour cherries. In Riccia, another sweet symbol of the feast are the calzoni di San Giuseppe, a kind of sfogliatelle made with chickpeas.
This celebration still represents a strong moment of union, devotion and sharing, keeping alive the cultural and spiritual roots of the Molise community.