Venafro: the gateway to Molise, where history meets fine olive oil

Venafro, nicknamed the ‘gateway to Molise’, is the first town you come to when entering the region from the west. Situated at the foot of Mount Santa Croce, between the Matese and Mainarde mountain ranges, it is crossed by the River Volturno. Its name may derive from ‘Omner Aper’, in reference to the wild boars that once roamed the woods.

The history of Venafro dates back to the Punic Wars, when it was conquered by Hannibal. It subsequently belonged to the Lombard Duchy of Benevento, to the County of Molise during the Norman-Swabian period, and was a fiefdom of various noble families, including the Pandones, the Colonnas and the Caracciolos. During the Second World War, on 15 March 1944, it was subjected to an American bombing raid which destroyed part of the town and claimed thirty-five lives.

Pandone Castle, built in the 10th century and converted into a stately home by the Pandone family, houses frescoes depicting life-size horses – a unique artistic feature. In the surrounding area, the remains of walls, a theatre and the Verlasce amphitheatre bear witness to the Roman era. Notable religious buildings include the 10th-century Church of San Nicandro, featuring a work by Teodoro d’Errico; the Cathedral of the Assumption, with a painting of the Virgin Mary dating from 1590; and the Church of the Annunciation, which houses paintings by Giacinto Diano and Griffoni.

Other places of interest include Palazzo Caracciolo, the springs of San Bartolomeo and the Roman watchtower, the ‘torricella’. Also of note are the French cemetery and the Winterline Museum, which houses wartime artefacts relating to the Second World War.

Venafro is rich in traditions and folk events, including the “favor r’ San Giuseppe”, bonfires lit on 19 March, and the “corsa ri ciucc”’, a donkey race held in the Verlasce amphitheatre. During the festival of the Madonna delle Grazie (2–3 July), traditional games such as the “rotta r’ l’ p’gnat” and “gl’albr r’ la cuccagna” take place.

Culinary-wise, Venafro is famous for its extra virgin olive oil, protected by the Regional Olive Park, and for the “v’scuott”, a braided, crisp tarallo. Local specialities include “l’nocch” (Neapolitan chiacchiere), “C’ciariegl’” (New Year’s sweets), “Sciusc” (aromatic fritters), “alla m’ntanara”-style salt cod, “polenta verde” with Brussels sprouts, and the “Easter frittata”, made with at least 33 eggs.

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