In the heart of the Molise countryside, among rolling fields and ancient sheep-tracks, lies a place steeped in history, faith, and mystery: the Church of Santa Maria della Strada in Matrice. But its charm goes far beyond its Romanesque architecture—it is rooted in a fascinating and surprising legend: the story of King Bove.
Legend has it that King Bove, madly in love with his own sister, asked the Pope for permission to marry her. The Pope agreed on one impossible condition: build one hundred churches in a single night. Desperate, the king turned to the devil, promising him his soul in exchange for help. Throughout the night, they built furiously, and by dawn, ninety-nine churches were standing. At the last moment, King Bove repented and pleaded for God’s forgiveness. Enraged, the devil hurled a massive boulder at the Church of Santa Maria della Strada—a stone that still lies nearby, silent witness to this extraordinary tale.
Of all the churches built, only seven are said to have survived, including Santa Maria della Strada, one of the oldest gems in Molise, consecrated in 1148. Today, the small church stands alone on a hilltop, its limestone walls filled with fossils and nummulites, adding scientific interest to its historical significance.
The church’s decoration is truly enigmatic: bas-reliefs depicting biblical scenes, mythical creatures, and chivalric tales, griffins carrying Alexander the Great toward the heavens, dragons, lambs, and cryptic initiation symbols. Inside, simplicity reigns: twelve uniquely carved columns and an ancient Gothic sarcophagus, the final resting place of Berardo D’Aquino.
Visiting this site is much more than a simple tour—it’s a journey through the incredible weave of history, legend, and spirituality, under the vast, open skies of Molise’s most authentic landscapes.