Agnone, the largest town in upper Molise, is a fascinating village that combines history, art and tradition. It stands on a hill and has its roots in Samnite times, becoming an important junction between Molise and Abruzzo over the centuries. In the 11th century, the leader Landolfo Borrello brought Venetian families to Agnone, who started working with gold, copper and iron, making it famous for its workshops. Later, the focus of craftsmanship was the Pontificia Fonderia Marinelli, active since the Middle Ages in the production of bells for churches around the world.
Today Agnone is part of the Italian Touring Club’s Orange Villages network. The historic center is spread out on a rocky prow, with picturesque alleys and numerous churches of great artistic value. The church of St. Mark, built in 1144, has Baroque altars and wooden statues from the 15th and 16th centuries, as well as a precious silver-gilt monstrance. The church of San Francesco, dating from 1343, houses paintings from the school of Beato Angelico and Paolo Gamba. Outside the walls is the 14th-century church of San Emidio, with its elegant Gothic portal and striking rose window. The church of St. Anthony, on the other hand, is from the 18th century, with a majestic three-tier bell tower and interiors decorated with coeval altars and paintings.
In addition to churches, the town is enriched by elegant historic palaces, such as those of the Nuonno, d’Apollonio, and Fioriti families, and by old Venetian workshops. The Emidian Museum and the Emidian Library hold valuable historical artifacts, sculptures and manuscripts. Nearby, nature provides striking scenery such as the Verrino Falls.
Agnone is also home to major cultural events. Among the most important is the traditional ‘Ndocciata, held on the second Saturday and Dec. 24, when townships parade with lit flashlights, creating an evocative river of fire. The Christmas festivities are enriched by the music of bagpipers and artistic nativity scenes set up in village houses.
A mountainous area and ancient transit route for shepherds, it is known for typical cheeses such as caciocavalli, scamorze and ricotta. Local specialties include barbecued lamb, truffles and mushrooms preserved in oil, used to season traditional pasta. Desserts include stuffed wafers and Agnone’s confetto riccio, characterized by a wrinkled surface and crumbly texture.